Subwoofer Info: Learn Car Audio Subwoofers

Subwoofer. The low. The volume. The glory. The most unpleasant part of your system, and also, one of the most necessary.

If you read my article about speakers, up to six speeds. If you have not (and do not know anything about speakers or subwoofers), read here.

Subwoofer to reproduce the lowest frequencies of the audio spectrum, AKA bass. They are essential for both systems of SPL and SQ, but for different reasons. Let's take a look now ...

For SQ systems: Effectively reproduce the lowest frequencies making the music sound full and powerful. Instruments that play lower frequencies, such as organs, percussion and synthesizers will sound more realistic and powerful with a subwoofer installed.

For SPL systems: Because subwoofers are strong, are the preferred speaker to make a whole lotta noise.

Furthermore, since our ears are less sensitive to lower frequencies of which we need down more for the system balanced sound.

So, what should I try to find a big woofer? I'll tell you!

Power Rating:

Just as with any other party to a stereo system, power handling is important for subwoofers as well. Previously, in my article about speakers, I discussed how you can send more power to them to increase their volume, but it reduces distortion. The same goes for the subwoofer, but be careful! Since lower frequency distortion is more difficult to perceive, it is easy to exaggerate and blow the subwoofer. In any case, with that said, it's smart to buy an amp that can put exactly what your subwoofers are designed to take, but take it easy!

Dimensions:

Subwoofers come in many sizes, but most common are 8 ", 10", 12 "and 15". This is probably also noticed in metrics for European brands. As you can imagine, the bigger woofers are those who will play harder and play less. Of course, children are more musical, more accurately, and the sound "tighter". What size you decide which usually has to do with their own preferences, as well as installation considerations. Remember! 18 "subwoofer not only fit anywhere!

Voice coil info:

SVC: Single Voice Coil

This means that the speaker has a single coil. In other words, only one input.

DVC: Dual Voice Coil

This means that the speaker has two coils, or two inputs.

Ummmmmmm, ok. Why is it important?

I could go into details here, but I know that does not really matter. Basically, it boils down to this: With a DVC subwoofer, there are more installation options. Look at it this way, a DVC "looks" like two subwoofers to your amplifier. With some nifty wiring tricks (called series and parallel), you can connect to many subwoofer amplifier only - even if the amplifier is a "mono" or two-channel amplifier. In addition, you can manipulate many ohms the amp has to push. If you have an amplifier that is stable at half ohm (like some old school Orion HCCA amps), you could connect the woofer to one channel 4-8! Imagine the noise could be done!

Some words on the boxes:

Boxes are essential for most of the subwoofer. In other words, consider the box just as important as the subwoofer to a subwoofer. Why? Because most subwoofers need a box to work properly, sound good, and not damaged. A subwoofer that does not require a box are called "free air" or "infinite" baffle subwoofer.

As I said, the most subwoofers need a box. Thus, we speak of boxes!

In the first place, what types of boxes there are?

Sealed: The simplest type. Essentially, an airtight box is a box in which inner and outer are not connected. There are holes, and care is taken to ensure that the box is completely sealed.

Porting: A dialog box is a ported subwoofer with at least one hole, or "gate" in it. The objective of the housing port is to emphasize a certain frequency. These boxes are used because they are often stronger than sealed boxes.

Bandpass: A window of bandwidth is similar to a ported box as it is equipped with doors, but the box banda through attempts to de-emphasize certain frequencies, while emphasizing others. In other words, it functions as a bandpass crossover. The box highlights a banda banda frequency, while de-emphasizing lower and higher frequencies of the band.

Isobarik: These boxes are designed to put more than one subwoofer in a small box. The subwoofers are designed to work in tandem. Sometimes subtitles both move in the same direction at the same time, sometimes it pulls the other pushes sub. There are advantages to this type of configuration, but it is difficult to design box.

OK, now you know everything about SUBZ, but here are the specifications that you need to know to choose your subwoofer:

Power Handling: Subs speaker, and as such can only handle so much power (or distortion) before jumping in the air! Management of the power is measured in watts, and is often given in two characteristics: RMS and Max (or peak). The RMS rating is the most important. If a sub says it can handle 200 watts RMS and 400 watts Max, make sure that the amplifier will provide 200 watts RMS as well. Not 400 watts RMS. While it is true that the divers can handle 400 watts, it can only handle that kind of power for a short period of time. If you connect the sub up to an amplifier that puts out 400 watts RMS, you ruin that speaker pretty quickly - because it is constantly exposed to 400 watts, not short bursts of 400 watts. You dig? Good.

Sensitivity: This term means exactly what you think it means. In short, a subwoofer with higher sensitivty will be louder than a subwoofer with lower sensitivty when they are connected to the same amp. The specification is measured in db.

Frequency Response: Obviously want a subwoofer that can handle a wide range of frequencies. However, the subwoofer does the most work below 100Hz. If the subwoofer reproduces all the way down to 20Hz, you know you have a great sub. The good news is that even if it does not go so low, most music does not. Sooooo, you'll be fine. I would say is more important to have a diver down game systems and DVD players with 5.1 audio. Furthermore, the frequency response varies depending on the box that the subwoofer is installed in. Ummmm, so with that in mind, just pick a subwoofer that will handle the power, and sound as you want.

Cone Material: When it comes to subwoofers, this is actually something quite important to pay attention. Because subwoofers are big and powerful, you need a cone material that can withstand lots of abuse. I personally am a big fan of metal such as aluminum. This is because aluminum is light and rigid, and in the same way, produces very narrow and music from the bass sound. I know that many subwoofer manufacturers use exotic sounding materials for their subwoofer, making it difficult to determine which material is best.

Surround material: Here's my advice: always get a subwoofer with a rubber surround. Rubber rules the best in the car.

Impedance: Measured in ohms, this spec tells you how much resistance the speaker presents to your amplifier. Too much, and you get no volume, too little, and your subwoofer will fry your amp! This spec will help you decide which amp to connect to your subwoofer, if you want to connect your amplifier, and if you want to connect multiple subs in parallel or in series. Also, subwoofers sometimes have more than one coil (aka DVC). This means that the subwoofer will have two inputs, each with the same impedance. Subwoofer with dual voice coils are more versatile for installation, especially in multiple woofer systems.

A basic subwoofer install is pretty easy. If you buy a pre-fab sub box, mount the sub and the power of them, you're going to get good bass. To install professionally, and get the best sound, planning and the work must go into the whole process. This is a situation where if you do not feel confident in your ability to build a box, tuna, and connect, you should visit a car audio shop and have them do it for you. This can be relatively cheap, and quite expensive.

If you are planning to install yourself, but lack the skills building box, you can buy a prefabricated box. I would also strongly recommend an EQ device to fine-tune the bass. This will help to overcome the road noise (which remains low), and also reduce the "Boom" and "muddiness". Eventually, this path is the best compromise between a custom box and a pre-fab box. You will get a great sound, and save money!

Now go easy on the ears!

Honest AEB-......